Crape Myrtle – A Southern Icon Gets Even Better

Crape Myrtle – A Southern Icon Gets Even Better

  • By Susan Martin
  • /
  • June 2018 - Vol.4 No. 6
  • /
  • 8 Comments

One of the most beloved, iconic trees of the south, crape myrtle is prized for its long, vibrant bloom period in the height of summer heat. Commonly called the “lilac of the South,” the spelling of this tree is a litmus test of geographic origins. Crepe myrtle is the most commonly accepted “southern” spelling; north of some unspecified crepe-myrtle line, it becomes crape myrtle. But despite the difference in spelling, this selection consistently offers clouds of blooms, attractive exfoliating bark, colorful leaf color in fall, and a variety of sizes ranging from 20” shrubs to 30’ trees. In fact, this multi-stemmed deciduous plant is considered either a tree or a shrub depending on size. Cultivar heights range from dwarf to semi-dwarf, medium to tall. The exfoliating bark peels away to expose a trunk which ranges in color from many handsome shades of brown to gray to pink. This bark is especially noticeable in the winter months when the tree is leafless, giving crape myrtle its prized four-season interest.

Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’: David J. Stang

Lagerstroemia ‘Acoma’: David Ohmer

Lagerstroemia is a genus of about 40 species of deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees from warm-temperate to tropical areas of Asia to Australia. The genus name honors Magnus von Lagerstroem (1691-1759), Swedish botanist, Director of the Swedish East Indies Company, and friend of Linnaeus. The most common species in the United States is Lagerstroemia indica. Although native to China and Korea, the species name (indica) indicates that the plant originated on the Indian subcontinent. When Europeans first encountered crape myrtle in India, they assumed it was native to that location. It was introduced into South Carolina in the late 1700s. L. fauriei, native to Japan, is another species found in the United States. Hybrids of the two species generally produce excellent selections.

PLANTING

The ideal planting site is in well-prepared, well-drained soil, with full sun exposure and good air circulation. Crape myrtles planted in partial or full shade will have reduced flowering and increased disease susceptibility. The plant will tolerate slightly alkaline to acidic (5.0 to 6.5 pH) clay and other soil textures. Although drought-tolerant, it requires irrigation until it becomes well-established (approximately two years).

FERTILIZATION

Light fertilization is best; heavy fertilization can increase foliage production at the expense of flowering. Light applications of a complete fertilizer in spring after leaves have appeared and in summer are adequate. A complete general-purpose garden fertilizer — such as 8-8-8, 10-10-10, 12-4-8 or 16-4-8 — is ideal. For newlyplanted small plants (1-gallon size), apply 1 teaspoon of fertilizer along the perimeter of the planting hole monthly from March to August. Larger, established plants will benefit from one broadcast application of fertilizer in spring after the leaves have appeared. The best time to fertilize is just before a rain. Otherwise, water in the fertilizer after application. It is not necessary to remove mulch when fertilizing.

PRUNING

Flowers are produced on new growth. On smaller plants, a second bloom can be encouraged by pruning flowers immediately after they fade. Severe pruning of crape myrtles has become a common practice to maintain shrub size. Chopping off the tops of crape myrtles, known as “topping” or “Crape Murder” ruins the natural, graceful effect of the plant. Many dwarf and semi-dwarf cultivars are now available, making it possible for the homeowner to have the desired plant size while maintaining the natural branching effect. The best way to maintain a crape myrtle is to plant an appropriate cultivar that will grow to the height and spread desired at maturity.

Corrective pruning should be done to remove damaged or dead branches when a problem is detected. Otherwise, prune while the plant is dormant (winter or early spring) to remove lateral branches, small twigs, or branches in the center of the plant to open more space for sun and air movement.

To develop a tree shape, remove all but three to five of the strongest trunks at ground level. As these trunks mature, remove lower, lateral branches (aka ‘limbing-up’) to one-third or halfway up the height of the plant. Remove branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other as well as shoots growing into the center of the canopy. Make cuts to a side branch or close to the trunk. As the tree grows taller, remove lower branches as needed. Remove any future growth from the ground to retain the desired tree shape. Basal sprouting may occur whether the tree has been pruned or not. When possible, pull these sprouts out while still succulent. Wait a growing season or two before grooming and shaping tree forms to allow them to get established and build reserves.

For more information on the pruning of crape myrtle, refer to the Clemson Cooperative Extension, HGIC 1009, Crape Myrtle Pruning

When a large crape myrtle is in a spot where a low, compact plant is desired, there are two options: (1) dig up the offending specimen and then plant a dwarf or smaller cultivar that requires little to no maintenance, or (2) prune the stems back to about six inches above the ground each year. Severe pruning will not kill or injure a healthy crape myrtle.

PROPAGATION

Crape myrtle is propagated easily from semi-hard wood cuttings taken during spring and summer. Take 6-8” cuttings from new growth, leaving three to four nodes per cutting and several leaves. Rooting hormone is generally not necessary, and cuttings should root in three to four weeks. Place cuttings in well-drained rooting medium in a shaded area; keep them moist by enclosing them in a clear plastic bag. The young rooted plants can be transplanted to their permanent location during the fall and winter. (Note: It’s illegal to propagate plants that are still under patent.)

DISEASES AND PESTS

Crape myrtles are susceptible to many problems including: powdery mildew, sooty mold, black spot, tip blight, Cercospera leaf spot, and root rot. Aphids and Florida wax scale, also potential pests, occur relatively infrequently.

Powdery mildew is a common disease in early summer during hot, dry weather. It appears as a white, powdery coating or spots on leaves and flower buds. Treatment is rarely needed, although heavy infections of the flower buds can cause them to abort.

Sooty mold is an unsightly superficial, dark brown or black coating on leaves and stems that can be removed by rubbing. It is the result of a fungus growing on honey-dew excretions made by insects such as aphids. Plant vigor may be decreased because of the reduction of photosynthesis in the leaves due to shading.

Tip blight results from a fungus that causes leaves near the tips of the tree branches to turn brown in spring or summer. Look closely at the infected foliage to see the small black spore-bearing bodies.

Cercospora leaf spot is a fungus disease that occurs more in mid-to-late summer, particularly when weather is rainy. Dark spots show up on the leaves, which then turn yellow or orange and drop. Even though trees may lose a large portion of their leaves, there are no long-term, serious health effects. By the time you see this disease, spraying is not effective.

Crape myrtle is resistant to deer.

SELECTION CRITERIA

Choosing a crape myrtle is not just a matter of selecting a particular color. The desired mature size is a major consideration. The garden rule of “right plant, right place” is expanded to “right size, right place.” Because crape myrtles are best if not pruned, size selection becomes paramount. James Hodges of the Clemson Extension advises the following steps for choosing well-adapted, suitably-sized plants in desirable colors:

  • Research cultivar information on crape myrtles and take it with you for the purchasing decision.
  • Know the potential mature size (small shrub, medium shrub, or various sized trees) of the cultivars under consideration.
  • For cold-hardiness, select cultivars that are classified as Zone 7 or lower according to the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
  • Choose cultivars that are resistant to powdery mildew and aphid insects; treating these problems is often difficult on larger plants.
  • Select named cultivars and keep these records so you can match additional plants in the future; this will also help you identify good and poor cultivars based on your site.

NATIONAL ARBORETUM CULTIVARS

Many of the successful crape myrtle cultivars have been developed by the National Arboretum research and breeding programs. Many of these hybrids are named for Indian tribes, which makes it easy for gardeners to remember and to identify particular selections. These cultivars were also developed for mildew resistance. The mature heights of these trees vary by temperature, i.e., they may grow to the high end of the stated range (or more) in southern climates but remain much smaller in colder climates. As you will see from the following list, size at maturity is significantly impacted by temperature. The following list represents some of the cultivars developed at the National Arboretum; all are recommended for Zone 7 or lower. All have dark green foliage that offers fall color, exfoliating bark, and terminal inflorescences (panicles) of flowers.

Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’: David Ohmer

Lagerstroemia ‘Natchez’ grows 4’ to 21’ tall; orange to red fall color; dark cinnamon bark; and 6-12” long white flowers.

Lagerstroemia indica ‘Muskogee’ grows to 12’ to 25’ tall; reddish-orange fall color; gray to tan bark; up to 10” long light lavender-pink flowers.

Laerstroemia ‘Yuma’ grows 6′ to 20′ tall; dull yellow-orange fall color; grayish-brown bark; up to 14″ long bicolored lavender flowers.

 

Lagerstroemia ‘Choctaw’ grows 3’ to 18’ tall; bronze to maroon fall color; dark bark shows light brown exfoliation; 7-17″ long bright pink flowers.

 

Lagerstroemia ‘Tuscarora’: David J. Stang

Lagerstroemia ‘Apalachee’: Dave Whitinger

Lagerstroemia ‘Apalachee’ grows 2’ to 12’ tall; dull orange to dark red fall color; cinnamon to gray bark; 5-9” long light lavender flowers.

Lagerstroemia ‘Tuscarora’ grows 2’ to 16’ tall; reddish-orange fall color; mottled tan bark; 6-12” long dark coral-pink flowers.

Lagerstroemia indica ‘Hopi’ grows 4’ to 11’ tall; reddish-orange fall color; grayish-brown bark; 6-7” long light pink flowers.

Lagerstroemia ‘Comanche’ grows 3’ to 11’ tall; dark orange to dark reddish-purple fall color; mottled sandlewood bark; 6-9” coral-pink flowers.

Lagerstroemia ‘Acoma’ grows 2’ to 10’ tall; dull red or reddish-purple fall color; gray bark; 6-7” long white flowers.

Lagerstroemia ‘Potomac’ grows 2’ to 10’ tall; dull orange to dark red fall color; grayish bark; 6-8” long medium pink flowers.

Lagerstroemia ‘Tonto’ grows 2’ to 11’ tall; dull red to reddish-purple fall color; beige bark; 6-7” long bright magenta flowers.

DWARF CULTIVARS

The RAZZLE DAZZLE SERIES® of six dwarf plants was developed at a Michael Dirr breeding program at the Center for Applied Nursery Research in Dearing, Georgia. These deciduous, multi-stemmed cultivars are noted for ease of care, excellent flower colors, handsome foliage, compact habit, and good disease resistance. If spent flowers are promptly deadheaded, additional flowers will continue to bloom into fall. Flowers give way to round seed capsules which often persist well into winter.

  • Lagerstroemia indica ‘Gamad I’ CHERRY DAZZLE grows 3′ to 5’ tall and wide; full sun to part sun; burgundy-red fall color; grayish-brown bark; cherry-red flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia ‘Gamad V’ DAZZLE ME PINK grows 3′ to 4’ tall and wide; full sun to part sun; burgundy-red fall color; grayish-brown bark; bubblegum-pink flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia ‘Gamad VI’ BERRY DAZZLE grows 3′ to 4’ tall and wide; full sun; burgundy new foliage; early bloomer; fuchsia-purple flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia ‘Gamad VII’ SWEETHEART DAZZLE grows 2′ to 3’ tall and 4′ to 5’ wide; full sun to full shade; beautiful pink flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia ‘PllLAG-1’ DIAMOND DAZZLE grows 3′ to 4’ tall and wide; full sun; pure white flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia ‘PllLAG-2’ STRAWBERRY DAZZLE grows 4′ to 5’ tall and wide; full sun; neon-pink flowers.

The following are deciduous, mildew-resistant dwarf crape myrtle cultivars developed by the National Arboretum in Washington, D.C.

Lagerstroemia ‘Pocomoke’: David J. Stang

  • Lagerstroemia ‘Pocomoke’ grows 2’ to 5’ tall; glossy, dark green leaves emerge maroon in spring, turn dark green in late spring, and finally turn bronze-red in fall; gray to tan bark; deep rose-pink flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia ‘Chickasaw’ is a dwarf-mounded shrub that grows only 20″ tall by 26″ wide over a period of 7 years; pinkish-lavender flowers from midsummer to frost.

MIDSIZED CRAPE MYRTLES

Micheal Dirr has also developed a Barnyard® series of midsized crape myrtles, including:

  • Lagerstroemia x ‘Gamad VIII’ Pink Pig grows 6′ to 10’ tall and 5’ wide; full sun; burgundy buds followed by large, soft, pale pink flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia x ‘Gamad IX’ Purple Cow grows 6′ to 10’ tall and 5’ wide; full sun to part sun, deep purple flowers.
  • Lagerstroemia ‘PllLAG III’ Red Rooster grows 8′ to 10’ tall and 5’ wide; full sun; foliage starts as burgundy in spring before turning dark green; brilliant red flowers.

Note that, as with any new cultivars, an introductory period in the general market will provide more information on cold-hardiness, disease, desired moisture levels, and sunlight requirements.

WARNINGS

During the long blooming season, old flowers drop out of the trees. This is a nuisance when trees are planted near patios, pools, and parked cars. Honeydew drops from aphids may also stick on cars or patio furniture.

A common problem with crape myrtles is injury from the careless use of mowers and string trimmers around the base of these thin-barked trees. To prevent this type of damage, do not allow grass to grow within a foot of the trunk. To deter weeds, cover the area around the tree base with about 4” of mulch pulled back slightly from the trunk.

USES IN THE LANDSCAPE

Because of the great variety in size of various cultivars now offered, crape myrtles can be planted as specimen trees or as a brilliant border of color in group plantings. Midsized cultivars can be used in smaller landscapes. Dwarf varieties offer a brilliant, long-lasting color to perennial beds or to foundation plantings. They can even be used in planters and placed on decks and patios. The color palette is broad and beautiful. The crape myrtle’s historical presence in southern gardens will become even more prevalent now that it’s been given so many new looks!

SOURCES

At top of article, photo of Lagerstroemia ‘Muskogee’ by David J. Lang

Lagerstroemia-indica,” https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/all/lagerstroemia-indica/

“Crape Myrtle Pruning, https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/crape-myrtle-pruning/

“Star Gardener: Not all Crape Myrtles are Created Equal,” http://easthamptonstar.com/Arts/4/Star-Gardener-Not-All-Crape-Myrtles-Are-Created-Equal

“Choosing Right Crepe Myrtles,” http://www.indexjournal.com/lifestyles/columnists/clemson-extension/clemson-extension-choosing-right-crape-myrtles/article_ec8198a4-7e4a-5a81-96b6-0332e5a995b5.html

“Crape Myrtle,” https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/crape-myrtle/

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

“Crape Myrtle Culture – University of Georgia,” https://secure.caes.uga.edu/extension/publications/files/pdf/C%20944_5.PDF

Clemson University’s HGIC plant search website, https://hgic.clemson.edu/

Gardener’s Confidence Collection, https://gardenersconfidence.com/plants/red-rooster-crapemyrtle

Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder, http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?taxonid=250246&isprofile=1&basic=lagerstroemia

8 Comments

  1. Janet Allen

    These may be decorative, but what a loss to biodiversity! These non-natives don’t support the insect life that is fundamental to the food web. Why not promote native species instead? Info is at https://www.nwf.org/NativePlantFinder/, Lady Bird Johnson’s Wildflower Center at wildflower.org or of course the Va Native Plant Society at https://www.vnps.org.
    To learn more about the bigger picture, read Doug Tallamy’s book “Bringing Nature Home” and another with his co-author Rick Darke “The Living Landscape.” And one of his videos is at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UonRPIea48Y&t=1s or just search for Doug Tallamy for shorter ones. Let’s leave our children a living planet!

    1. Susan Martin

      Thanks for sharing thoughts on the importance of using native plants in order to support native pollinators and other insects that are essential to the food web. Many gardeners have been devoting time to learning about natives and are converting their gardens to plantings that are 100% native. As you referenced, Doug Tallamy’s work has had a particularly strong influence.

      As with many big questions, however, the answers are not always as neat as we’d like them to be. There are ongoing studies at universities regarding the preferences of pollinators and insects for native vs. non-native plants. The University of Sheffield, as well as other universities in Great Britain, have published recent studies that address the importance of native vs. non-native plants. Actually, my use of the word “versus” is part of the problem in this debate. If the goal is to provide the best sources of nectar and pollen for pollinators and other insects, does the source matter? Again, I realize that Tallamy’s work highlights the necessity of certain plants for certain insects. However, these university studies raise questions regarding the assumption that native is always the best solution, and that non-natives are merely taking up space in the garden for ornamental pleasure.
      Some excerpts from a recently-published report by the University of Sheffield help summarize the key point:

      “The good news is that there is a growing body of scientifically rigorous literature that quantifies the relative value of native and non-native plant species to UK pollinators. What this data shows is that being valuable to pollinators is primarily dependent on the possession of certain biological characteristics or traits, which do not correlate neatly with original geographical distribution.

      Salisbury et al. (2015) and Hanley et al. (2014) have shown that native pollinators are just as happy, and sometimes even prefer, to use these non-native flowers when available. We have ourselves found, in our Sheffield trials, strong evidence for the ecological value of non-native plants and particularly near-natives.”

      LandscapeJournal.org

      The benefits of including native plants in our landscapes has been well-documented. However, some studies indicate that excluding non-natives from habitats will not necessarily produce the best environment for pollinators. Referring back to the article on crape myrtles that initiated this discussion, crape myrtle is included on a list by the University of Georgia of plants beneficial to pollinators. University of Ga.Angriculture&EnvironmentalScience Although crape myrtle blossoms are not providers of nectar, they are good sources of two different types of pollen. The timing of this pollen source is also important; crape myrtle blossoms appear later in the summer when other blossoms are becoming scarcer. There is also a report by the Florida Entomological Society on the benefits of crape myrtle pollen for native and non-native bees. biome.org

      Another major concern in the native vs. non-native debate is the effect of invasive non-indigenous plants that are introduced through the horticultural trade. A publication by Va.Cooperative Extension, “Invasive Plants – A Horticultural Perspective,” reviews important research on the frequency and impact of non-native invasive plants. Pubs.ext.vt.edu
      As indicated in this report, although invasive species are an environmental problem, the proportion of nonindigenous species that become invasive is quite small. Despite the relatively low percentage of plants that ultimately become serious invaders, the large number of garden plants for sale makes the potential invasive nonindigenous plant list quite sizable. The report also emphasizes the negative ecological effects of even a single invasive species; the total cost is estimated to be $26 to $35 billion in crop losses and herbicide expenditures annually.

      There are even more complexities. Some plants that are native to some U.S. states become invasive in other states. For example, the VCE report notes that black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) is a common tree native to the central Appalachian and Ozark Mountains but is considered an invasive species in California.

      “There has been an abundance of work to determine the plant characteristics and ecological factors that lead to plant invasion. At present, the most reliable and powerful predictor of a species’ invasiveness is its record of invasiveness in other nonnative sites.”

      Invasive traits need a long-enough time frame to become evident, which means that the invasive plant is already established in some locale. As an example of the timing factor, crape myrtle was introduced into South Carolina in the late 1700s, and so we can be confident that invasive properties would have already be evident. But determining how much time is necessary will vary by plant and habitat.

      So, you’ve raised a really important, complex issue that I’m sure will be considered by other readers as well. The question is not just why focus on crape myrtles, but why include any non-native plants at all? There is a lot of good information on the importance of incorporating native plants into the landscape. Further discussion is needed on whether non-natives are always a poor “second-choice” or even a “non-choice” when taking an environmentally beneficial approach, or whether they could be a first-choice option based on individual traits and the particular habitat. The choice to “go native” is up to each gardener, but we need to understand the pros and cons. Again, quoting from the VCE publication:

      “In sum, a responsible gardener will judiciously plant species native to the region or nonnative species that do not invade natural areas, rather than nonnative plants known to invade natural areas.”

  2. Ralph Morini

    Great article Susan. Really complete info on everything from selection to care. Thanks for this comprehensive guide to successful growing of a distinctive and beautiful plant family.

  3. C J Rhondeau

    Hi Susan,
    I love my 2 Crape Myrtles and balanced them out with native River Birches, soi have the best of both worlds, which leads to the thought that one should plant their gardens also with what gives them pleasure.

    In our community entrance, we have smaller Crape Myrtles pruned by the neighborhood horticulturalist. We lost one last year and now I see another one is in decline. I will take a closer look to see what is causing their distress and consult with my neighbor. They are in a median strip and the roots may be unable to stretch or root rot may be the culprit. The trees have been theire since the area was developed seventeen years ago.

    Thanks for the first excellent article! It bumped me into action to inspect the entrance trees closer.

  4. Janette Martin

    Great article, Susan. Thanks! Just a couple of things. When you say the crape myrtles on the list are rated “zone 7 or lower,” do you mean “zone 7 or higher”? I found very few crape myrtles that are rated zone 6 and none lower than that. This is a concern because I lost one of my Siouxs from our tough winter, so I’m looking to replace it with a more cold hardy crape. The Sioux is rated 6 on some sites and 7 on others. Andre Viette Nursery had to prune back almost all of their crapes because of the winter kill.

    Also, do you know if any crapes rated zone 6 that have deep purple flowers?

    One more question, Japanese Beetles eat all of my crape myrtle flowers. Do you have any good control suggestions?

    Thank you!

    1. Susan Martin

      Janette, thanks so much for commenting. You are absolutely correct about the zones. I was referring to zones 7, 8, and 9. When I said “lower” I was thinking of more southern. Not a clear written response at all!
      Regarding the Japanese beetles problem, we’re advised to knock as many off as possible into soapy water since they like to congregate. Sheer numbers attract more beetles. Although we can try that with roses, it’s a lot more difficult with crape myrtles.
      In a 2014 article from VA Tech on Japanese Beetles (https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/2902/2902-1101/2902-1101.html), the following was recommended for ornamental trees:
      “Apply a systemic insecticide such as imidacloprid in May or June. Use a soil drench in the early part of the growing season so the insecticide is present when the beetles begin feeding later. Systemic insecticides applied after the beetles start feeding in late June will be less effective. Contact insecticides will kill beetles present at application. Beetles in rose blooms are rarely controlled.”
      In addition to the problem of being too late in this season, there is a lot of work being done on the effect of imidacloprid on honey bees. For general information on imidacloprid, a pesticide in the neonicotinoid class, you can refer to Cornell’s EXTOXNET site (Extension Toxicology Network) or the National Pesticide Information Center (http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/imidagen.html). The University of California Integrated Pest Management site (http://ipm.ucanr.edu/TOOLS/PNAI/pnaishow.php?id=42) warns not to use imidacloprid before flowers come into bloom because the systemic pesticide works its way through the roots into the plant, up into the leaves and flowers, and can enter into the pollen. The Virginia Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has commissioned a five-year study at Virginia Tech on bee health, including the effects of pesticides.
      So, I obviously don’t have a lot of practical advice on what to do about Japanese beetles because possible chemical solutions carry so many possible risks.
      Your third question concerns a recommendation for a deep purple crape myrtle that is cold hardy to zone 6—another difficult question! Even crape myrtles that are described as cold hardy to zone 6 are root-hardy in that climate, but the tops can still die back in winter. Therefore, you would probably do best to find a micro-climate in your yard, a spot with lots of sun and some protection from wind. Even so, the tree might die back to the ground and start over in the spring. The National Arboretums crape myrtle development program discussed in the article produced 24 varieties. One of the earliest, Lagerstroemia indica ‘Catawba,’ was developed in 1967, and is a beautiful deep purple; the mature height listed as 10’ to 19’. (Projected heights are higher in warmer climates.) Although I think the color is what you’d like, it is not a cross between L. indica and L. fauriei. The fauriei species was used to introduce cold hardiness and mildew resistance. So, I don’t know if ‘Catawba’ is cold-hardy enough. It does have mildew resistance. Your ‘Sioux’ cultivar is also part of this Native American named group and is a cross between L. indica and L. fauriei. Its description sounds great but you’ve found it’s not sufficiently cold-hardy. L. indica x L. fauriei ‘Muskogee’ is lavender-pink and is supposedly hardy enough to withstand zone 6 winters. It has a mature height of 12’ to 25.’ L. indica x L. fauriei ‘Apalachee’ is light lavender and grows 13’ to 19.’ L. indica x L. fauriei ‘Zuni’ is medium lavender but tops out at about 11’ in the south and is smaller in colder climates. So, those are my best suggestions for crape myrtles that are lavender-to-purple and are supposedly more cold-hardy. Clemson University has a helpful site that describes crape myrtle hybrids (https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/crape-myrtle-varieties/).
      We really appreciate your taking the time to write. We all learn from each other’s questions. Thank you!

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