The Vegetable Garden In July

  • By Cleve Campbell
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  • July 2016-Vol.2 No.7
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  • 1 Comment

The weather in central Virginia is often unpredictable, ranging from an unseasonable 75-80º  in February to snow in April, but we can say with certainty that in July, it is going to get HOT! The heat brings many challenges, not only to the garden but also to the gardeners, who must somehow protect themselves from the hot summer sun with clothing and sunscreen while remembering to maintain hydration.

July in the vegetable garden is primarily a month of maintenance: watering, applying additional mulch, weeding, and harvesting.  The ambitious gardener may take on additional tasks, such as sequential planting of select vegetables, planning and preparing for the planting of fall crops.

July is a good month for filling in those empty spaces left from those early-spent spring crops such as lettuce, English peas, potatoes and radishes. July planting may include beans and squash and a host of other vegetables. Take a look at the handy-dandy chart below, which was developed using the Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication 426-331 “Vegetable Planting Guide and Recommended Planting Dates.”

July Planting chart 2July Planting Chart 4

Not sure of what varieties or cultivars of vegetables to plant? A comprehensive list of recommended vegetables for Virginia can be found in the Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication, titled “Vegetables Recommended for Virginia.”


It’s important to control weeds around vegetables, as weeds will out-compete vegetable plants for nutrients, water and sunlight. The best method to control weeds is by mechanical extraction, meaning good old-fashioned weed-pulling or the use of a hoe.   For small weeds, the “hoop” or “stirrup” hoe is highly recommended because it allows for shallow cultivation.  Another plus for the hoop hoe:  it does not bring weed seeds to the surface of the soil! Many weed seeds require sunlight to germinate, so deep cultivation or utilizing a tiller often brings seeds to the surface of the soil, facilitating seed germination for a new crop of unwanted weeds.

Hoop or Stirrup Hoe

Hoop or Stirrup Hoe

Additional information on controlling weeds in the vegetable garden may found in the Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication, “Weeds in the Home Garden,”

More Tips and Tasks for July:

  • To save space in your garden, you can construct temporary or permanent woven wire fences, which will provide vertical support for runner varieties of beans, as well as for cucumbers. Plants can be trained to climb the fence, saving not only space but also making harvesting easier as the vegetables will be hanging at a convenient height.
  • A Threat to Basil   Watch out for a fungal disease specific to sweet basil called fusarium wilt of basil. The fungus attacks the water-conducting tissue (xylem) within the stem. Infected plants will grow normally until they are six to twelve inches tall.  Then the plants become stunted and will suddenly wilt. Symptoms include wilting and brown streaks along the stems. The stem may become curved — often referred to as a shepherd’s crook. Once established, the fungus can over-winter and survive many years in the form of spores, ready to cause new infections if basil or other members of the mint family are replanted in the same area.  Currently, there is no fungicide approved for the treatment of this fungal disease, but it can be controlled somewhat by removing all diseased plants, by avoid planting basil in the same location, and by planting disease-resistant varieties. Additional information on fusarium wilt of basil is available at :
Fusarium wilt of basil (Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. basilicum)
Debbie Roos, NCSU Agricultural Extension Agent, Chatham County, NC

Fusarium wilt of basil (Fusarium oxysporum, f. sp. basilicum).  Photo: 
Debbie Roos, NCSU Agricultural Extension Agent

  • Pepper plants are more productive if given appropriate moisture. Placing mulch (such as wood chips or leaf mulch) around plants will help retain soil moisture and reduce the need for frequent watering. In addition to conserving water, mulch provides the extra benefit of becoming a weed barrier.
  • Continue to monitor water moisture levels around plants. The rule of thumb is that plants need one inch of water per week to maintain productivity.  Mulching reduces the need for frequent watering and improves yields.  Early morning is the best time to water. Evening water is less desirable because leaves that remain wet through the night are more susceptible to fungal diseases.
  • Okra blossoms — one of the showiest blooms in the vegetable garden — only last one day. Keep your eyes peeled if you don’t want to miss them.  If the flower has been pollinated, a miniature okra pod can be seen beneath the wilted flower.
  • Wondering if your blueberries are ripe enough to pick? Just try pulling a few berries from the stems.  If they come off easily, they are ready to harvest. If not, they need to ripen more. Cover with netting or the birds will beat you to the fruit.
  • Dry weather causes Swiss chard to bolt—or prematurely go to seed. Water your plants to extend the season.
  • Cucumbers develop a bitter taste if the soil is not kept consistently moist. Leaf mulch works great to help maintain soil moisture.
  • Harvest cucumbers for pickling when they reach 2-4 inches in length; for table use, harvest when no longer than 5-6 inches. Remove any over-ripe cucumbers to encourage continuous production.
  • Withhold water on potatoes when the plants begin to die down, as water and fertilizer may disturb the dormancy stage and cause regrowth; it can also cause potatoes to crack.
  • If potatoes are visible along the soil surface, they probably look green. This coloration is caused by exposure to light. Green-skinned potatoes will taste bitter. How to avoid this problem:  make sure potatoes are protected from the light by covering them with soil or mulch.
  • Pumpkin and squash blossoms are both beautiful and edible. To prepare squash or pumpkin blossoms for an appetizer, pick them after they open. To remove insects and dirt, wash and drain the blossoms, dip them in a flour or beer batter, and fry until golden.
  • Although tomatoes are self-pollinating, they need movement to transfer pollen. If it is hot and calm for several days, gently shake plants to transfer pollen and assure fruit set. Hot temperatures can also interfere with blossom set.
  • Shredded Chinese cabbage is a good hot weather substitute for lettuce in salads and sandwiches. A second crop may be started now for fall harvesting.
  • In the summer, dry soil may become hard, making it difficult to work and inhibiting seed germination. Plant your succession and fall vegetables when the soil is moist — either after a rain or after watering the area thoroughly the day before you plant. Seeds may be planted in a shallow trench to conserve moisture.
  • Did you know? Daytime temperatures above 90º F. prevent snap bean flowers from developing.
  • Too many cucumbers, zucchini, or tomatoes? Think pickles, relishes, and tomato sauces.
  • Don’t forget the County Fair! Show off you gardening abilities by exhibiting fresh vegetables, flowers, and fruits.

Thanks for stopping by The Garden Shed. We hope to see you again next month!


“ Vegetable Planting Guide and Recommended Planting Dates,” Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication No. 426-331,

“Vegetables Recommended For Virginia,” Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication No. 426-480,

“Weeds in the Home Garden,” Virginia Cooperative Extension Publication No. 426-364,

“Basil Problem,” NC Cooperative Extension,

Tips and Tasks adopted from “July Vegetable Tip Sheets,” Albemarle Cooperative Extension,




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